It’s a man’s jacket, made of velvets in a variety of opulent bright colours, with a silk or satin shawl lapel; ornamented with braided frogging and toggle fastenings, it may also be adorned with turn-back cuffs, quilted satin facings, and sometimes a belt tie.
The smoking jacket was intended for tobacco smoking, so as to absorb the smell of the smoke. That way the rest of the gentleman’s wardrobe would largely avoid doing so, and not offend the sensibilities of ladies and others.
Today they are worn as part of an evening outfit, with navy or black dinner trousers, white dinner shirt and a black bow tie; for the less formal black-tie event.
It can also be made in silk and occasionally cashmere.
HISTORY OF THE SMOKING JACKET
Originated in the 19th Century and first defined by the Gentleman’s Magazine of London as “a kind of short robe de chambre’, or Short Dressing gown. It became popular in the mid 19th Century for men to retreat after a meal to enjoy a pipe or cigar, (and some brandy); remove their formal tailcoats before heading to the smoking room wearing a smoking jacket. The jacket helped to keep ash off their jackets so they wouldn’t smell of smoke when re-joining the ladies. They would change again before returning to the table. At this time, it was alsocommon for men to don a smoking cap to protect their hair from smoke. Smoking jackets grew in popularity due to the Duke of Windsor, who in 1865, commissioned Henry Pool in Savile Row to fashion him a blue silk Dinner Jacket to wear to meals. (Instead of the formal dress tailcoat). This was the first Dinner Jacket. •
This marked the beginning of these jackets becoming acceptable as a semi-formal article of clothing. Over the late 1800s and early 1900, plainer and simpler smoking jackets were seen more and more frequently. In the 1940s, they received another popularity boost thanks to Cary Grant, Dean Martin, and Frank Sinatra. Later Hugh Hefner adopted his trademark silk smoking jacket look.
Although not worn as often as Dinner Jackets, the modern Smoking Jacket has become a stylish and luxurious alternative.
*The first short Dinner Jacket was a jacket only; designed to replace the Tail Coat only, for the less formal occasions, leaving the rest of the ensemble intact. Later, a slightly different style of trouser was developed to accompany the Dinner Jacket making it a Dinner Suit. Hence the name Dinner Jacket, being synonymous with Dinner Suit.
STYLES OF SMOKING JACKET
There are two main styles of smoking jackets: the more traditional robe-like version and the modern style.
TRADITIONAL
The ‘robe de chambre’ style smoking jacket is reminiscent of the classic smoking jacket. It’s typically a three-quarter-length robe with a belt or sash closure, much like a dressing gown or bathroom robe. This style should be worn for its original purpose or for relaxing around the home.
MODERN
The modern style evolved to be more suitable outside the home and reflect more of a contemporary taste. It is a short jacket, same as a Dinner Jacket, features buttons (toggles) rather than a sash and fitted to enhance the wearers shape.
WHAT IS A SMOKING JACKET USED FOR IN THE 21ST CENTURY?
Although the concept of a separate jacket to wear while smoking has all but disappeared, modern smoking jackets are often worn as casual dinner jackets for semi-formal dinner parties or less formal ‘black tie’ or optional ‘black-tie’ events. They should be accompanied by dinner trousers, a dress shirt, a black bow tie and patent shoes. Velvet smoking jackets are a popular choice. The more traditional, robe-style smoking jacket would usually only be worn in your own home.
WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A TUXEDO AND A SMOKING JACKET?
Although they both come under the ‘black tie’ dress code, smoking jackets are not the same as Tuxedos (Dinner Suits). A smoking jacket is a single item of clothing (the jacket), while a tuxedo usually refers to matching jacket and trousers.*
Traditionally worn inside the home while smoking tobacco in the 19th century (although now acceptable at less formal black-tie events), smoking jackets are more informal than dinner jackets. The jacket is typically crafted from luxurious materials such as velvet or silk, featuring a relaxed fit, a shawl collar, and decorative braiding.
In contrast, the dinner jacket is a more formal, worn for formal black-tie events. It’s usually black, navy, or white, with characteristic satin lapels and satin-covered buttons, made from a fine wool and wool blends.
*Unless it’s a White Tuxedo (White Dinner Jacket), which is worn as part of a Dinner Suit, with Dinner Trousers, white shirt and a black Bow Tie. A White Dinner Jacket is worn in warm climates and aboard a ships.
How Phillip Alexander can help
If you’re searching for a bespoke, tailored smoking jacket crafted by expert tailors, we can assist you.
With locations in Cheshire and Savile Row in London, Phillip Alexander offers a range of tailoring services, including bespoke suits, made-to-measure suits, and tailored suit hire. Whichever option you choose, our tailors will be on hand to guide you through the entire process, offering styling advice to help you look your best.
If you want to know more about our range of services or get some advice about whether a smoking jacket is right for an upcoming event, contact us today to request an appointment.
