Morning Suits

This is formal daywear. For weddings, formal garden parties, race meetings and at funerals. The morning coat is black or grey. If in doubt wear black. They used to be called ‘cut away’ coats, because they are frock coats with the corners cut away.

Black morning coats are worn with grey striped or hound tooth trousers, although sometimes more colourful variations can be seen; always without turn ups. Light grey morning coats have to be worn with matching trousers and preferably with a matching vest; although, at a wedding for the groom, a different waistcoat is acceptable.

With a morning coat, a vest must always be worn. This can be single or double-breasted; traditionally dove grey, but increasingly, colourful vests are becoming more popular. A colourful shirt with white collar can be an interesting addition.

A top hat in black or grey is often worn, but at a funeral, it must be black. The tie should be plain grey, but colourful ties can be acceptable, depending on the occasion. Shoes should be black oxfords.

A white tuxedo is a good way to give your evening wear a crisp update, often worn in warmer climates or on a cruise.

The jacket is usually ivory, can be double or single rested, but should be with a peaked lapel, unless it has a shawl collar.

A White Tuxedo should always be worn with a white dress shirt and a black bow tie. As with a black Dinner Jacket, shoes should be black patent leather, or black loafers.

Becoming quite a style trend, notable wearers in the last few years have been David Beckham and Ryan Gosling wearing a superb shawl-collar at the Golden Globes.

Originally worn for smoking after dinner; when gentlemen would retire to a smoking area, if ladies were present, the Smoking Jacket was brought more into the public eye by men like Dean Martin and Frank Sinatra.

As they partied and performed in Las Vegas, they would begin wearing their smoking jackets both on and off the stage. 

Smoking Jackets today are worn as a casual dinner jacket, more typically in England, to parties in homes, especially by the host, less formal ‘black tie’ parties and country balls. They should be worn with dinner trousers, dress shirt, black bow tie, patent shoes or velvet slippers.

The most formal evening attire for a gentleman; Full Evening Dress. Also known as Evening Tails.

The tailcoat must be black and cannot be buttoned up. White Tie should always be worn with a white waistcoat, made from cotton pique, white dress shirt with a wing collar and bib; and matching white bow tie.

The matching trousers have double silk braids on the outside seams and are never worn with turn-ups. The trousers have to have a high waistband to ensure that the waistcoat covers them, so they are supported by braces.

White tie is traditionally worn to balls, the opera, the ballet and state banquets. If you are lucky enough to be invited to an event which requires you to wear white tie, make sure you get it right. No doubt it will be an exclusive occasion; you’ll want to feel confident in your attire, rather than out of place.

It also makes the most wonderful Wedding Suit, for an evening wedding; exceptionally elegant and glamorous.

The right accessories can make a crucial difference; and there are so many options available. Choose with care and if in doubt, be understated rather than bold; but sometimes, bold is the only way to go.

We offer a wide variety of luxurious bow ties, ties, cravats, cufflinks, hats.

We have a range of items to choose from including bespoke items which we can create from scratch, to perfect match your garments.

Phillip Alexander have vast experience offering a range of bespoke tailoring services for men. Whether you are looking for bespoke suits, Made to Measure Suits or a bespoke wedding suit (also for hire) for that very special day, Phillip Alexander can help.