The Ultimate Guide On How To Wear a Double-Breasted Suit

The Ultimate Guide On How To Wear a Double-Breasted Suit

30 January, 2024

If you’re already familiar with double-breasted suits, you might wonder if double-breasted suits are in style. Our tailors are here to tell you that men’s double-breasted suits are indeed becoming more and more popular for the modern gentleman. This classic suit style helps accentuate your physique, making you appear taller and your shoulders seem broader. 

If you want a more structured alternative to the more common single-breasted jacket, a double-breasted suit is an ideal addition to your wardrobe. You’ll be able to find modern double-breasted jackets in a range of fabrics and cuts, making it easy to find the perfect suit for you, whether it’s for everyday wear or a formal occasion. 

We’ve put together this ultimate guide with everything you need to know about double-breasted suits and how to wear them. This guide will cover:

  • What is a double-breasted suit?
  • Single-breasted suits vs double breasted suits
  • Why choose a double-breasted suit?
  • When to wear a double-breasted suit
  • How to wear a double-breasted suit

What is a double-breasted suit?

A double-breasted suit has overlapping front lapels and two parallel columns of buttons. Usually, only the first column of buttons is functional, while the second is decorative. The number of buttons can vary, but there are typically 4-6 buttons of which 1 or 2 are functional. The 6×2 button configuration is the most common, meaning there are 6 buttons total and 2 functional ones. 

Single-breasted suit vs Double-breasted suit

A single-breasted suit has only one column of buttons and there is no overlapping fabric, unlike a double-breasted suit. The front closure is typically in the centre of the jacket and is secured by only one or two buttons.

Contemporary double-breasted jackets are usually longer than single-breasted ones and narrow at the waist. They typically draw eyes towards the top portion of the jacket, while single-breasted jackets tend not to have a particular focus point. Double-breasted suits are often perceived as more formal than their single-breasted counterparts. 

When to wear a double-breasted suit

Unlike other styles of suit, there are no strict rules around when or where you should wear a double-breasted suit. In fact, double-breasted suit jackets are surprisingly versatile. 

You can wear a double-breasted suit wherever you would usually wear a suit, including work, formal events and weddings. However, be aware that double-breasted suits are usually perceived as more formal, so they might look out of place at casual or semi-formal events. 

Why choose a double-breasted suit?

Even if you prefer the look of a single-breasted suit, a double-breasted suit is a perfect addition to your wardrobe. A well-tailored double-breasted suit can make your waist appear narrower and your chest appear broader. So, it’s a great suit style for men whose waist is wider than their shoulders. The wide peak lapels also help to draw eyes upwards creating the illusion that you’re taller than you actually are. 

How to wear a double-breasted suit

If you’re thinking of adding a double-breasted jacket to your suit collection, follow our master tailors’ top tips to ensure you’re dressed to impress!

1. Don’t over-accessorise

A double-breasted jacket is already enough of a statement without adding lots of accessories. Try to keep the rest of your look simple and let your choice of suit jacket speak for itself. Stick to a subtle pocket square or elegant wristwatch.

2. Be mindful of your buttons

The double-breasted style creates a specific silhouette, so you must keep your buttons fastened until you need to sit down. However, you should never button your bottom button as this restricts your movement and ruins the line of the suit.

3. Avoid waistcoats and belts

A double-breasted jacket already has an extra layer of fabric where the jacket overlaps, so a waistcoat is best avoided. A belt can make your suit jacket bunch up and spoil the distinctive silhouette of a double-breasted suit, so they’re best avoided as well.

4. Choose peak lapels

Although some modern double-breasted jackets now have notch lapels, peak lapels are traditional and play an important role in the overall look of the jacket. It’s the wide peak lapels that help to draw eyes upwards creating the illusion of height. 

5. Opt for a tailored suit 

A tailored double-breasted suit will create a much more flattering fit than an off-the-peg suit. An expert tailor will be able to craft a double-breasted jacket that fits you perfectly and helps to define the shape of your body. Whether you want to disguise your midsection or give the impression of more height, a master tailor will be able to create the perfect suit for you. 

Bespoke double-breasted suits by Philip Alexander 

We’ve been dressing gentlemen for over a century. If you’re looking for an expertly tailored double or single-breasted suit, our team can help.

With locations in Cheshire and Savile Row in London, Phillip Alexander offers a range of tailoring services, including bespoke suits, made-to-measure suits, and tailored suit hire. Whichever option you choose, our tailors will be on hand to guide you through the entire process, offering styling advice to help you look your best.

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